Fior di Salina L'ERBOLARIO

ENG: L'Erbolario has always been a treasure coffer plenty of little surprising gems and the last release confirms its validity.
Fior di Salina is extremly wellbalanced fresh breez inspired by the nature of Mediterranean coasts. It opens with the splash of bitter-sour bergamot that fades rather quickly leaving the place to aromatic mineral kind of smell - greeness of galbanum and immortel, marine salty accord and powdery sweet touch of iris. In some moments  it seems to detect even some sweet and minty notes, but mostly it's a relaxing mix of aromatic mediterranean herbes mixed with sea salt and citruses, all expressed in the form of pastels - soft and powdery! An excellent aroma, with medium sillage and good persistance, absolutely perfect to accompany whole summer.
The line includes 50ml Perfume, body lotion, shower gel, body oil-scrub.

ITA: Fior di Salina è una brezza di  freschezza  ben bilanciata, ispirata alla natura delle coste del Mediterraneo. Si apre con una spruzzata di bergamotto amaro-acido che svanisce in modo piuttosto veloce lasciando il posto ad un odore minerale aromatico - la freschezza del galbano e dell'elicriso, l'accordo marino e il dolce tocco dell' iris. In alcuni momenti sembra rilevare anche alcune note di menta dolce, ma soprattutto è un trionfo del profumo di erbe aromatiche mediterranee mescolate con sale marino e agrumi,  tutto in tonalità dei pastelli soffice e talcato. È un eccellente compagno per tutta l'estate, con sillage medio e la persistenza buona, assolutamente perfetto.
La linea comprende 50 ml Profumo, crema corpo, gel doccia, olio-scrub per il corpo.

My most loved FIG fragrances

Fig is the fruit of Gods and I can say the same about fig perfumes. I'm not a fruity perfumes lover, but fig makes an exeption for me. I even don't consider fig note as "fruity" as it is so much richer compared to any other fruit. It covers wider spectrum including green milky smell of its crushed leaves, dry powdery woodiness of its branches and the juicy sweetness of its fruits. As a big fig fragrance lover I could wear them always and here you can peek to my figgy paradise and find also some other suggestion that for the moment stay in my everlasting wish-list.

On the pic from left to right:
New Study (Postcard) Miller et Bertaux, Premier Figuier Extreme L'Artisan Parfumier, Figue Amère Miller Harris, Premier Figuier Body Lotion, Ninfeo Mio Goutal, Limon Verde AA Guerlain, Figue Exquise Klorane Shower gel, Fleur de Figuier Body oil Roger & Gallet

Green-woody-fresh: Philosykos Diptyque, Premier Figuier L'Artisan Parfumeur, Ichnusa Profvmum Roma, Velvet Vetiver D&G

Milky-woody-juicy fig: Premier Figuier Extreme L'Artisan Parfumeur, Jardins de Kerylos PG, Maisia Gabriella Chieffo,  Fico di Amalfi Acqua di Parma

Citrusy fig: Ninfeo Mio Goutal, New Study (Postcard) Miller et Bertraux,  Un Jardin en Mèditerranèe Hermes, Lemon Verde AA Guerlain

Woody bitter fig: Figue Amère Miller Harris, Bois Naufrage PG, L'Arbre de la Connaissance Jovoy

Salty fig: Womanity Mugler

Gourmand fig: Fleur de Figuier Roger & Gallet, Coco Figue CSP

Powdery fig - Figue Iris AA/ Promenade des Anglais Guerlain

Don't forget about different body products! L'Artisan Parfumeur offers Premier Figuier body lotion and shower gel, Roger & Gallet shower gel and fantastic body oil, Klorane Shower gel and there is much more.

VISITEUR - a peek to autumn 2018

ENG: PREVIEW, the launch will be at autumn 2018.

It's bit funny, but last night I made a dream about reviewing this new niche perfume brand😄. Strange, but wakeing up I remembered everything so I  decided to write it down before my dream disappears :-)...

VISITEUR is a Swedish brand founded by Janne Rainer Voorenmaa and the first three fragrances will be launched in autumn 2018. These perfumes recount us emotions about certain moments from different times and places, draw visuals that have been fixed in our memory and guide us with an odor in finding these special moments and memories again.

Three fragrances. Three different very talented Noses. Three stories.

BEACH BIZARRE, the Nose Patrice Revillard.

Beach Bizzarre has the double face of a tropical paradise. It's a citrusy salty cocktail (lime, seaweed, white flowers..), bitter and with metallic edge (cannabis, patchouli, ambergris…). Like Margarita cocktail in its salt-rimmed glass - inviting and refreshing but sly. The metallic note conjures the idea of something scary, like finding yourself in beautiful beach, but by night and alone, no more music, no more sun and ballerinas...just you and an endless ocean in front of you. It needs some courage to dive in, but when you'll do it you'll be welcomed to immense beauty.

THOUSAND LAKES, the Nose Marie Schnirrer. 

The Land of the Thousand Lakes  is another name of  Finland. It's plenty of  birch forests, infinite swamps, little bonds and crystalline lakes hiding numerous summerhouses and saunas. This is a very familiar atmosphere for me as  I grew up in the neighbor country. This perfume brings you to these magic places, far away from metropolis and cities and helps to find often forgotten connection with nature. It has the smell of birch bunches - hay-like but greener and sweeter, mineral smell of hot stones from sauna, of steam, of wood resins that you see as tears on the walls of wooden sauna and even the smell of earth, mushrooms and mosses - all this is weaved into this surprising perfume. It’s soft and tender, naked even…pure if I may say so.

For me it was one of few times I smelt something so close to my childhood memories.

PENSÃO AMOR - the Nose Cécile Zarokian. 

For me the most intriguing perfume from the line and my favorite. The story of this fragrance is dirty, flirty, dark, arduous, sad and joyful at the same time...  The name Pensão Amor is the name of a lively bar at Lisbon that in past was a brothel. This place's use is changed but its interior and decorations still refer clearly to its history. The Perfumer, Cècile Zarokian, found the key to this complex mood in tuberose - the most bewitching note ever, combining it with cumin, smoke, tobacco... The result is the most animalic tuberose I've smelt. It has kind of rubbery, plastic smell like of something false - an inviting  feigned love of doll-like beauty in dusty smoky darkness. It's mesmerizing in its daringness. The first tuberose based fragranze Cécile created and it's magnificent!

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ITA: È una cosa bizzarra - stanotte ho sognato di  aver recensito questa nuova linea di profumi. Svegliandomi mi  ricordavo tutto come l’avessi appena scritto. Quindi ho deciso di metterlo sulla carta prima che il mi sogno scompaia: -) ...

VISITEUR è un marchio svedese fondato da Janne Rainer Voorenmaa e le prime tre fragranze non sono ancora sul mercato, ma saranno lanciate nell'autunno 2018. Questi profumi ci raccontano gli emozioni  dei momenti  e dai luoghi diversi, disegnano elementi visivi che siano stati fissati nella nostra memoria e ci guidano con  l’odore nel ritrovare di nuovo questi  ricordi speciali.

Tre fragranze. Tre diversi Profumieri di grande talento. Tre storie.

BEACH BIZARRE, il Naso Patrice Revillard.

Beach Bizarre ha la doppia faccia di un paradiso tropicale. È un cocktail salato agrumato (lime, alghe marine, fiori bianchi …), amaro e con un tocco metallico (cannabis, patchouli, ambra grigia ...). Come un cocktail Margarita nel suo bicchiere bordato di sale - invitante e rinfrescante, ma furbo. La nota metallica evoca l'idea di qualcosa di spaventoso, come trovarsi in su una bella spiaggia, ma di notte e da solo, niente più musica, niente più sole abbagliante, niente ballerine ... solo tu e l’oceano infinito di fronte a te. C’è bisogno di un po’ di coraggio per tuffarsi, ma quando lo farai sarai accolto da un’ immensa bellezza.

THOUSAND LAKES, il Naso Marie Schnirrer.

The Land of Thaousand Lakes è un altro nome della Finlandia. Questa terra è immersa nelle foreste di betulle, coperta d’ infinite paludi, piccoli stagni e laghi cristallini dove nasconde numerose casettine estive e saune. È  un'atmosfera molto familiare per me di quanto ho passato la mia infanzia nel paese vicino, sempre al Nord. Thousand  Lakes ti porta in questi luoghi magici lontani dalle metropoli e dalle città e aiuta a trovare la vicinanza con la natura, spesso dimenticata.  La fragranza ha l’odore di mazzi di riami di betulla  - simile al fieno ma più verde e dolce, l’odore minerale di pietre scottanti in sauna, di vapore, di resine di legno che vedi come lacrime sulle pareti di sauna  e persino l'odore della terra , di funghi e di lichene - tutto questo è intrecciato in Thousand Lakes  - un profumo tanto sorprendente come raro. In sua complessità è morbido e tenero, nudo anche ... puro se si può dire.

Per me è stata una delle poche volte in cui ho sentito qualcosa di così vicino ai miei ricordi d'infanzia.

PENSÃO AMOR - il Naso Cécile Zarokian.

Il profumo  più intrigante della linea e il mio preferito. La storia di questa fragranza è oscura, sporca, civettuola, ardua, triste e gioiosa allo stesso tempo ... Il nome Pensão Amor è il nome di un bar vivace a Lisbona che in passato era un bordello. L'uso di questo luogo è cambiato, ma i suoi interni e le decorazioni si riferiscono ancora chiaramente alla sua storia. Il Naso, Cècile Zarokian, ha trovato la chiave per evocare questo  immagine complesso, nella tuberosa - la nota più ammaliante che ci sia e la combina con cumino, fumo, tabacco ... Il risultato è la tuberosa più animale che abbia mai sentito. Ha l’odore gommoso, plasticoso,  come di qualcosa di falso –  di un amore finta di una bellezza  da bambola  in un'oscurità polverosa e fumosa. È ipnotizzante nella sua audacia. 

La prima fragranza di tuberosa di Cécile …. semplicemente  magnifica!

Le Petit Prince NISHANE

Murat Katran di Nishane all' Esxence 2018.

IT: Nishane ha presentato ad Esxence 2018 due profumi ispirati alla storia del Piccolo Principe di Antoine de Saint-Exupèrie - B-612 e Vain & Naïve.

Non è abbastanza se dico che sia stata un'idea meravigliosa. Disegnare con l'odore le idee sul contrasto tra la visione del mondo senza limiti dei bambini e quella degli adulti, considerata gretta; raccontare l'importanza di un luogo che si possa considerare proprio, la casa, che nel libro era l'asteroide B-612, il luogo di provenienza del Piccolo Principe, è infinitamente affascinante.

Ma oltre ciò, l'asteroide B-612 è un riferimento ad un fenomeno molto diffuso  - alla paura dello sconosciuto ed al disprezzo verso l'estraneo derivati dall'ignoranza. Il narratore del libro ci spiega che la scoperta dell'asteroide B-612 non fu creduto subito per l'abbigliamento tradizionale turco dello scienziato in quale si presentò davanti ad un commissione scientifico. Presentandosi vestito in modo occidentale il discorso cambiò e la scoperta fu registrata.

Ma che profumo ha B-612???
Per me ha un profumo a mille strati - è terroso, aromatico, persino ammuffito e minerale. Ha l'odore del rametto di cipresso stritolato tra le dita, del patchouli umido e della lavanda che a tratti si presenta persino mentolata. La fava tonka aggiunge la dolcezza e cashmeran garantisce un sentore legnoso muschiato. La fragranza è particolare, ma molto piacevole....annusandola si annusa la serenità e io me ne sono rimasta incantata!

Vain & Naïve invece è il profumo che celebra il vero amore; nella storia l'amore che legava il Piccolo Principe alla sua Rosa. L'amore che l'ha fatto soffrire, ma che non lasciava mai i suoi pensieri. 
“È il tempo che tu hai perduto per la tua rosa che ha fatto la tua rosa così importante.”
Vain & Naïve è una fragranza floreale muschiata fruttata, molto tenera e soffice, innocente e bella con le note di lampone,  rosa, muschio. Annusandolo sembra di inspirare la nebbia su un prato fiorito. È un profumo facile d'apprezzare e d'amare.

Tutte le due fragranze sono state lanciate sul mercato in aprile 2018, quindi a breve dovrebbero diventare disponibile.
Estratti; 50ml/195.-€.

ENG: Nishane presented at Esxence 2018 two perfumes inspired by the story of Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupèrie: B-612 and Vain & Naïve.
It's not enough to say I consider it to be a wonderful idea. Drawing with the smell the idea about contrast between the unlimited way of children to see the World and the way of  thinking of adults considered  to be narrow minded and mean; telling us about the importance of a place that can be considered proper, the home, that for the Little Prince was the asteroid B-612,  is infinitely fascinating.
But beyond that, the asteroid B-612 is also a reference to a widespread phenomenon - the fear of the unknown and the contempt of the stranger that derives from ignorance. The narrator of the book explains that the discovery of the asteroid B-612 was not immediately believed as the scientist presented himself at the scientific commission wearing traditional Turkish clothing. The second time he presented his discovery he did it in Western clothes, he was accepted and the discovery was recorded.
But how does B-612 smell like???
For me it’s a thousand-layer perfume - it's earthy, aromatic, even musty and mineral. It has the smell of the cypress twig crushed between  fingers, the smell of wet earthy patchouli and the smell of lavender that at times presents itself even minty. The aromatic woody qualities are rounded and sweetened by  tonka bean  and cashmeran ( a quality of synthetic musk) that guarantees a musky woody background. The fragrance is particular, but very pleasant .... it’s the smell of serenity.

VAIN & NAVE instead is the perfume that celebrates true love; in the book it was the love that bound the Little Prince to his Rose. The love that made him suffer, but never left his thoughts.
'It is the time you have wasted for your rose that makes your rose so important.”
Vain & Naïve is a fruity musky floral fragrance, very tender and soft, innocent and beautiful. I detect mostly rose and other soft floral notes with musk, raspberry and woody notes.  It gives an impression of smelling the fog on a flowery meadow. It is easy to appreciate and love this perfume.
Both fragrances were launched on the market in April 2018, so they will soon become available.
Both are extracts; 50ml / 195.- €.

ESXENCE 2018

Esxence 2018 – the 10th edition is over. For me it was the second time to partecipate to this wonderful event of art of perfumery and even my time was limited I’m so plenty of exhiting emotions its difficult to orientate in. What I love about these kind of events is the human contact and the possibility to meet persons behind every creation, listen their stories and thoughts  why and how their fragrances have born.

More detailed reviews will wait you in next days when I’ll test perfumes properly, but I would like to mention quickly the ones that moved me more.

MILLER ET BERTAUX – one of my favorite brands ever,  presented their Tulsivivah ! – a refreshing aromatic tribute to India, and to the connection between green nature and humanity, developed around tulsi, commonly known as holy basil with citruses and sandalwood base. For me was new also their Indian Study /Santal +++ - it’s a must for all sandalwood lovers, I personally am totally in love.

UERMI –  I re- discovered the whole brand. I loved a lot already Cècile Zarokian’s creation for them – OR+White, OR+Cashmere, OR+Ange, OR+Kanabo. The new launch is OR+Damask, an explosion of roses created by a big name in perfumery – Maurice Roucel. It definitely a deserves special post.

NISHANE – a Turkish house known for working with precious essence, presented the story of Little Price. Two fragrances, two different concepts. Vain&Naïve- a tender rose, as the one Little Prince loved; B-612 – aromatic and woody with lavender , cedar and sandalwood –  the feeling of home, as it was B 612 for Little Prince, the asteroid he was from. PS!The last one is one of my personal favorites from the fair.

MASQUE MILANO – (Homage to) Hemingway, one of the best vetiver based fragrances I have smelt. Features both – Haitian and Java vetiver lightened with freshness of rhubarb and ginger. The Nose behind this is Fanny bal – a young artist, the creator of Sale Gosse for Frederic Malle, for naming one, definitely a rising star in perfumery.

EXTRIT D'ATELIER – the brand was new for me, but I loved their concept a lot and the most important I liked a lot their fragrances. They are four in total, inspired of the atmosphere and work of artisans. My favorite was Maitre Couturier – an elegant fougere with lavender, aldehydes and woody notes, and the new launch – Maitre Ceramiste – a curious multilayered creation, powdery, dusty, milky, bit metallic and mineral – definitely one to look for.

L'ORCHESTRE PARFUM  - fragrances inspired of music experiences from different places all around the world. It was a wonderful discovery to test perfumes while listening the music that gave the start to them, it was a Music of Fragrance. I would like to point out one that touched me specially  - Rose Trombone – the solo of trombone in dark jazz club, an insolence rose with woody boozy base.

ATELIER DES ORS – presented their new White Line, composed by three perfumes, inspired by paintings of Gustav Klimt, by luminosity, by white and gold.

SAMMARCO – no new launches and no need of them. The mastery of perfumery is presented  in all their natural authentic and daring fragrances. PS! I discovered for myself Ariel, that I had tested in run in past – deeply feminine, powdery, tender, but animalic.  It’s a perfume I would like to come back with a special post.

DUSITA – Even without new launches, Dusita is the TOP of perfumery.  All fragrances are genuine artistic presentations, beautiful as their creator Pissara Umavijani. The newest fragrance is Erawan. It was presented already at Pitti last year, but for me it was new. It’s complex as only simplicity can be. Green and dusty but also creamy, bread-like with aromatic herbs, hay and lily of the valley. It would be better not to stop on notes but just enjoy the experience with wearing it.

GABRIELLA CHIEFFO – presented Lattedoro (golden milk), a comforting gourmand fragrance with vanilla, milky notes, sandalwood and coconut. I detected mostly coconut and being honest it didn’t impress me a lot. But I take the possibility to mention one previous fragrances of this house I truly love – Acquasala, a marine fragrance that also not-marine-fragrance-lovers love.

DFG 1924 – no news and not needed, as all their fragrances are launched last year. It’s a new perfume house born in 2014, but with solid roots. Their perfumer Roberto Pasquale Dario brought in life ancient  formulas of  brands forefather Dalla Favera Giustino who was the founder of family’s pharmacy and creator of original formulas at 1924. I would like to point out my personal favorites  - La Fontana di Titti – a tender musky floral; Il Mercante dei sogni – fabulous woody powder of green;

D.S.& DURGA – Not a new launch, but new for me – Burning Barbershop – an immediate love that made me use all my free skin on arms for spraying it all over. A wonderful  relaxing and invigorating cuddle of lavender, vanilla and mint.

Obviously there was much much more to discover. It’s just a little bite of the whole experience Esxence offered.