Wednesday, April 8, 2020

ATELIER MATERI



The testing time!!!
Five fragrances. Five dominant notes enhanced in interesting personal way.
It's a rather new perfume house established by Véronique Le Bihan, french by birth and by her style. She worked in collaboration with Perfumers - Marie Hugentobler and Lucas Sieuzac and the result is the launch of the brand in 2019.
I encoutered them for the first time at Pitti 2019 in Florence and I couldn't not notice their polite way to treated all customers, indipendently who they were.
I got touched by their Sandalwood and Iris and had the necessity to test the rest of the line.
It's some days now, I spent testing them and I can say my favorite is still

- Santal Blond - a warm creamy sandalwood with cardamom and tonka bean. Meditative and deap,  I'm so happy the pickle note I often detect in sandalwood-based perfumes is absolutely missing here.
  • Top notes: Bergamot, Cardamom
  • Heart notes: Jasmine, Sandalwood
  • Base notes: Hinoki Bourbon, Tonka bean
followed by
- Peau d'Ambrette - a wonderful delicate skin scent - musky clean but somehow warm and animalic with an aromatic undertone. I guess it's ambroxan that plays important role here.
  • Top notes: Mandarin, Ginger
  • Heart notes: Ambrette, Angelica, Amyris
  • Base notes: Musk, Sandalwood, Ambroxan
- Cuir d'Iris - opens with rooty buttery orris note and settles down in very dry woody base. Honestly bit too dry and dusty for my taste, but it's still very interesting take of iris.
  • Top notes: Red mandarin, Petitgrain mandarin, Allspice
  • Heart notes: Pink pepper, Iris, Suede
  • Base notes: Balsam of Peru, Sandalwood, Leather musk

- Cacao Porcelana - a woody gourmand. A kind of gourmand I like as it's not too sweet. It's nutty and woody as other perfumes of this line.
  • Top notes: White cacao, Rum, Everlasting
  • Heart notes: Indian jasmine, Light tobacco, Davana
  • Base notes: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka bean
Actually the woodyness and dry dusty feeling is common to all fragrances by Atelier Materi, expect

- Poivre Pomelo - a citrusy fresh perfume
  • Top notes: Timut, Grapefruit, Pink peppercorn
  • Heart notes: Angelica, Peony, Osmanthus
  • Base notes: Cedar, Vetiver, Maté
You can buy samples and full bottle here.

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